Montenegro
The team - Colin, Jen, Lucy, Andy, Anthony, Adam and Sinead
     
In August 2006 I went out to Montenegro with a group of Christians from Warwick University Christian Union to work with a church there for 3 weeks.  We went to encourage the believers and help them in their work in Nikšić, including helping in the completion of a new building for the Pastor and his family, to be used as an English language and Christian resource centre as well as accommodation for future mission teams.  

This is a video I put together on returning - bear in mind it's the first time I've tried this, so forgive the amateurishness, but I think it gives a good overview of what our stay was like: Crna Gora (30Mb wmv) Or a smaller version (5Mb wmv)
Colin followed suit with his own style of movie.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I did: Montenegro (2.2Mb wmv)

Following is a log of our activities over the three weeks:

Fundraising
Before leaving we had to raise money to pay for all the feeding and TLC we hoped to receive once we arrived at the hands of Pastor Staniśa and his family.  Much of the 750 we each had to raise came from our local churches.  Queen's Road Baptist Church, in Coventry, which Colin, Andy and I attend, was very generous, and I was also granted £150 from the Catenian Association through my Catholic Church back home (see here for the subsequent report).  To make up the full amount, Colin and I undertook a sponsored hitch-hike to Scotland, a trip of 300 miles.  

Diary  
(Apologies for bad spellings.  I try - I really do.  Let me know and I'll get them changed!)
Monday 7th

Our flight was due to leave at 6:30am, so I was dropped off in Heathrow the night before and soon discovered Adam, settled down for a 7 hour wait, with a bag full of dirty washing as a result of coming direct from a camp to the airport.  We dozed and chatted till 4, when we met up with Andy, Lucy and Jen who had come down from Sheffield together, then Colin came along and the party was complete (in both senses of the word).  

Flights are always fun - I had never been on a jet before, and I couldn't catch up on sleep with those fantastic cloud-scapes just outside the window.  I love the impression you get of a country from the air (note the assumed air of a seasoned traveller), and you can see where Montenegro (or Crna Gora, both of which mean Black Mountain) gets its name.  The houses and farms looked somehow different, and the rivers looked gorgeous.  

When we arrived we were greeted by 
Maša (pronounced Marsha) and Filip (pronounced Philip!), who had made a big 'Welcome to Montenegro' sign which they left in the taxi-bus.  We were probably the most unusual looking bunch of people to come through Podgorica airport since independence, and as such attracted their notice without really trying.  On the way to Nikšić they pointed out ancient Monasteries clinging precariously to the rocky hillsides, and deep valleys with sparkling rivers and such-like.  We chanced our shaky Montenegrin and learnt valuable lessons such as Nikšić being pronounced Nikschich.  

We met our host family, the Surbatoviches, whose new house we would be helping to complete.  Pastor Stan, our initial point of contact, is Montenegrin by blood, but married Vicki in California, and the whole family moved back about 10 years ago to plant a church in Montenegro.  The eldest daughter, Anna Marie, was in America at university, but we got on well with their other four children; Amy (17), Christian (15), Josiah (13) and Milijana (11).  We dumped our stuff in the church building, which was a minute's walk away from their current house and, after being fed deliciously, we were treated to a tour of the town.  After weeks of beautiful weather in England, with temperatures straining to 36 degrees at times, we were treated to a homely shower of rain as we walked through
Nikšić, thereby rendering the Walking Street fairly deserted.  One of the most interesting customs we noticed was that, probably due to a lower disposable income, the young people, instead of binge drinking in the local pubs, would walk up and down the pedestrian zone of the town centre.  You would wander down the right hand side of the road, chatting with friends and looking out for people you know (not uncommon in a town of 60,000), reach the end, turn round and walk back.  Repeat till you get thirsty, grab a drink in one of the cafes which open out onto the street with covered seating, then resume your wholesome exercise.  

The girls were put up in an annex of the house while the lads slept in the church building round the corner.  With plenty of blankets provided the floor was quite sufficient for a well-earned night's sleep.  

Tuesday 8th
Vicki clearly understood the nutritional requirements of large numbers of students, and we regularly got through 2 or 3 large loaves of bread with butter and jam at breakfast in addition to whatever else was on offer.  The whatever else ranged from cinnamon rolls to fried egg and bacon sandwiches, all of which were snapped up with alacrity before a daily group devotional.  We took it in turns to do a short talk on sucessive chapters of the Gospel of John, and then prayed together before starting the day.  This was really helpful in setting us up for the day's work and other activities.  Andy did today's devotional on John 1.  

At 9 o' clock we set off to see the new house, or The Property as it was known.  It was about 15 minutes walk from the house, and even that short walk was enough to get a fairly good impression of the town.  A lot of the accommodation is blocks of flats, and some of the streets look really quite pretty.  There are also a lot of new houses being built - all from breezeblocks, and all with my kind of makeshift wooden accessories.  Most houses will have a heap of logsoutside at some time or other during the week, either waiting to be cut or split or laid out to dry.  Men drive around on little one-cylinder trucks with a big table saw mounted on the front to saw up logs.  They are split almost exclusively with a type of bearded axe which I am unable to find a picture of Once they are dried they tend to be stacked very neatly, and for people living in flats they are left outside covered in a tarp in the wasteland.  About half the houses had some chickens, turkeys or a goat or two, or even a cow tethered in the garden, with haystacks just outside.  I only ever saw baled hay once, out of the window of a bus on a long journey.  

The work at the property mainly consisted of preparing floorboards for the professional floor layers to use.  The workshop we used belonged to the next door neighbour, Milan, who ran a small business making violin bases out of curly maple.  Wood couldn't usually be bought ready machined, so people would go into the forests to fell trees themselves.  A tax was payable which varied depending on whether the wood came from government land or private land, and the trunks would be chainsawed up, left to dry and machined at a later date.  I was very impressed by the quality of the machinery in the workshop.  I had been gearing myself up for a run-down toolshed with a couple of rusty saws and an elderly draw-knife, but they had two bandsaws, one of which had a 2 inch thick blade, two thicknessers, a table saw and a router, as well as two dust extractors.  My job was to sort through the shaky and warped planks and cut them so as to make the most use of them.  Over the next week we got to use most machines and as a result have a good idea of the process.  The boards, which were anything from 20mm to 35mm thick, were cut to 12cm wide if necessary and any shakes trimmed off.  They then went to the planers who smoothed a face side and face edge, and then through the thicknesser to produce 22mm thick planks which were then cut to a uniform width (7, 8, 9 or 10cm, etc) on the table saw before being routered into tongue and groove boards and carted through to the house for the floorers.  

We had a break at 11, and then came back for lunch at 1:30.  After playing some football we had a prayer meeting at the church.  Then we found a couple of guitars and hammered out a few verses of Serbian Christian songs which made the locals cringe, before hitting the town.  We would congregate around a bench by the fountain or under the statue of the horsie (some famous king or other may have been sitting on this noble beast) and sing songs in both Engleski and Srpski on a badly tuned 12-string and another guitar that kept snapping strings.  Andy and I were to blame for the guitar playing.  

Wednesday 9th
Colin led a devotional on John 2, and then, with Josiah's help, I sawed up the remaining stocks of wood in readiness for the next load.  It was my turn to go back a bit early to help prepare food.  The real cooking was done by Vicki and Christian (who barbecued a wheelbarrow-load of chicken), while I cut the salad and sliced the bacon.  We held fast to our tradition of one evening by going into town again to sing, after the mandatory practise and chastisement by those who know what our Serbian sounds like.  The reason for singing in the centre was to attract in the team and the church so as to bring people to God.  Quite a few people would hang around to listen when the weather was nice, and those of us unencumbered with stringed instruments would approach them with leaflets about the church and attempt, in our severely limited Serbian, to get into conversations with them.  This frequently put a strain on the Surbatoviches or Simunovices who had to translate back and forth some quite complex theological debates at times.  

Thursday 10th
After my devotional on John 3, me and Andy were working in the new house, building a mezzanine floor.  This was in the attic, a spacious room distinguishable only from the other floors by its lack of subsequent floors and lack of plans for wooden flooring.  The boxes of stuff that had already come over from the old house were stacked up here, and we took planks of timber and fixed a surface in the timber framing of the roof to allow them to be stored out of the way during the moving process.  Singing was cancelled today due to the rain, but in case any of the people we had met the day before turned up, a few of us went into the centre.  Jelena, Jen, Lucy and I went to the fountain, and after waiting for a while we went to find a postcard shop.  Jen was ill, so we came back early, and that evening we went to the Simunoviches for tea.  They entertained us every Thursday for the duration of our visit, and cooked some lovely food.  We chatted with Jelena and Maša, and through them to their mother and younger sister, Anđela.  

Jelena told us about the hyper-inflation of the 1990s, and how people would get paid with huge wads of bills and barely have enough to buy bread.  She remembers how, after days with no proper food, her aunt managed to get hold of some dough and the smell of the bread she baked in their house for them.  

Friday 11th
Today we had a day off, and spent the morning at a nearby lake, where there was a place for jumping off.  Adam was one of the few who braved the higher rock (said to be 7 Amys high).  Before swimming we had a packed lunch in the pouring rain, which is always an exhilarating experience.  We spent the afternoon playing a version of cricket in the garden (automatically out if you hit the ball over the wall, 6 if you got it on the roof, etc) or just resting from our week's labours.  


Saturday 12th
We began the day with a 2-dozen egg scramble and bacon sarnies.  Amy had been ill the previous day, but fortunately Saturday was also a rest day, so we went to the lake again, and this time with more people.  Andy brought a guitar, Adam displayed his prowess at skipping before being buried in the sand, and we even tried our hand at limbo and volleyball before sitting around waiting for a bus for half an hour or so.  On our return Sinead had arrived to boost our numbers to 7.  Due to our late return we had a take-away which consisted of burgers about 5 times the size of a MacDonald's hamburger, which suited us just fine.  Then we spent the evening reading Kipling's Just-So stories and playing games.  

Sunday 13th
Our first Sunday in the country.  The church service was good, and the fact that Jelena was translating the Montenegrin sermon helped me to concentrate, though it was hard work.  The singing was enthusiastic, if still not particularly native-sounding, and bravely accompanied by Amy and Andy on the keyboard and guitar.  
We were treated to beef for lunch before going into town with the Simunovices, and then back to church for the evening service.  Afterwards Stan asked for a volunteer to help with the driving during our stay, and I leapt at the chance.  After a short trip with Stan in the front to keep an eye on me while we dropped off someone from church I was let loose on the highways and byways of Crna Gora, winding the window down instead of changing gear, and sliding the seat back instead of applying the handbrake.  Well, it wasn't quite like that, but driving from the left side of the cab took a bit of getting used to.  After jumping into the passenger seat and grabbing at a non-existent steering wheel a few times I caught on, though the relative position of the car meant I nearly clipped fifty wing-mirrors.  Great fun though, especially when you realise that honking the horn isn't a sign of displeasure in Montenegro, but merely a friendly greeting.  

Monday 14th
Jelena was due to fly back to America the next day to continue her studies, so after another morning's work, punctuated this time by activities surrounding a newly arrived table-tennis table, we said our emotional goodbyes.  It hardly seems like we've known her for only a week.  

Tuesday 15th
I drove Jelena and her (almost) tearful sister, Maša, to the bus station this morning, where we said our final (well, hopefully not completely) farewells, then back to the property where more chunks of tree needed slicing into planks.  Marc and Jenna, the final two members of our team, were due to arrive late tonight, but when they got to the bus the driver decided he didn't want to go, so they stayed with a friend of the church overnight.  

Wednesday 16th
Marc and Jenna arrived during the day, and most of the team went up to a hill above 
Nikš, but Colin, Andy and myself went, with Rada, Dragan and a few remaining Simunovices to their village in the mountains for the day.  The drive took a good couple of hours, but when you've got lakes like this or this to look at, you can't complain.  On the way up the mountain we passed a relative of the Simunovices atop a trailer of hay with half a dozen other men with pitchforks.  It looks a bit old-fashioned when I'm used to carting hay in bales.  We finally arrived at their cottage, a small, thick stone-walled house which kept deliciously cool despite the heat of the day.  These houses up in the mountains aren't ideal places to live unless you actually work up there, but many families have ancestral homes out in the countryside even though they usually live in the town for work.  The Simunovices lost their father aged 42, and they had planted a memorial walnut grove of 42 trees which we were helping to tend.  We dug around each tree to get rid of other plants, and put fertilizer beside them before covering it with wood shavings.  Being on a slope it is easy for nutrients to leech out of the soil, so it was necessary for the young trees to have some extra encouragement.  We were all grateful for a rest once we finished in the early afternoon, especially Andy.  We were fed on cold roast lamb and tomatoes as well as salami and cheese sandwiches, all of which was lovely.  The view from the grove was beautiful, and on the way back we took a detour through about twenty tunnels to see a dam which we were told off for photographing, and of course some more beautiful lakes.  

Thursday 17th
After my devotional on John 8 we headed across to the cabinet-maker's to pick up some kitchen cupboards, and rode in the back of the truck with them to the property.  We've started to make flooring for upstairs, and, in order to make use of more timber, have reduced our benchmark from 22mm to 20mm thickness.  After lunch a few of us went to visit Milan, the next door neighbour with the violin base business, and his family.  We showed them our photos and played games, and chatted till it was time to rush back for tea at the Simunovices - mashed potato with this one!  Meanwhile the rest of the team had been singing in town again.  There were rumours of the local TV station wanting to do a feature on us after seeing our singing, but they didn't get round to it before we left, unfortunately.  Not quite as impressive a story as my sister having a half-hour interview on Beijing radio or a friend from Warwick Christian Union in Brazil whose voice actually became incorporated in the local radio jingle.  

Friday 18th
Today was spent mostly sorting out eligible planks of wood for the 20mm flooring from the 22mm reject pile.  Colin was planing the usable planks when he got his t-shirt caught in the blades.  Fortunately it tore easily and came right off his back into the machine instead of dragging him in, but it gave us all a bit of a shock.  Risk assessment outcome: we remember to tuck our shirts in now.  We had our usual elevenses break, then did some weeding for a change from woodwork till lunchtime.  The girls brought back carrots and maize every few days, which was lovely.  

We climbed the hill above 
Nikšić as a whole team, along with Amy and Maša to pray, admire the view and find the outdoor gym, whcih consisted of chin-up bars, sit up bars, a bench press and so on, all built into the trees of the forest.  Adam treated us to his Golum impression, though no video evidence is available.  

We sang in the centre again, and got into some good conversations with locals.  The girls followed up some contacts they made with a visit.  

Saturday 19th
This Saturday we had planned a trip to Durmitor, one of the taller mountains about 2 hours away.  Most of the church came along, as did some friends of church members, so we took a coach.  As usually happens on these long drives, somebody or other felt ill half way along, so we all got out to play frisbee on the grass nearby.  We arrived at the chair lift, and after some negotiations by Milan we all headed up the slopes of Durmitor.  Chair lifts are fun, and I was posted with Mili so she could catch me if I fell.  Everybody enjoyed the ride to the top, especially when compared to walking it.  The view at the top was stunning, but there was still half an hour's walk to where we were headed.  We struggled up to the snow line, where the thin air does strange things to people, and found a big, flattish area of snow where the Montenegrin half of the group challenged the English to a football match on their own terms.  On the slippery snow, playing with an empty plastic bottle against people who had played like this before, we had no chance.  I think the score was 8-0, but it could have got much worse if the game hadn't descended into a snowball fight in the English defence and a subsequent pile-on.  It was a bit surreal with the sun still burning down on us and snow down our necks.  I think the football match did a lot to bind the two great nations together.  Useful to have a hatful of snow with us on the walk back down, too.  

Back at the base of the mountain I saw the only flock of Montenegrin sheep I have ever met, and then we headed for a nearby lake, the Black Lake, to have lunch.  During lunch I gave my testimony, punctuated by breaks for translation, of how I came to know Jesus and what he means to me.  After lunch we headed down to the lake itself where we went swimming.  For about 2 hours.  It was a lovely warm day, and the water was gorgeous.  We even encouraged Amy to join us despite a lack of swim-wear.  Afterwards she borrowed my shirt, which looked a lot bigger on her than it does on me.  After some more piggy-back wrestling type antics Andy managed to cut his toe, so we finally got out for a group photo or two (notice how I slipped those in seamlessly) and some sympathy for the big guy, whom I took great pleasure in dousing in iodide later that day.  

Sunday 20th
A fairly quiet Sunday, as Sundays go.  Marc and Colin gave their testimonies at church, which was very encouraging, and in between times, while the team was in the town I invented a card game, based on poker (which I had been introduced to the previous day), which turned out to be very popular.  It's called Take 5, and I won't bore you with the details here.  Maybe here instead.  


Monday 21st
Today was the official Moving In Day, and as such we were busy all day piling boxes into the truck, driving across, unloading and picking up more boxes.  We moved shelves, stoves, chairs, tables, boxes, and more boxes.  My hammock went up under the mezzanine floor, and became a popular spot for break times.  We spent a happy couple of hours searching for a shop that sold rope for completing a big A-frame piece of scaffolding for painting the south wall of the house.  Apart from anything else, this scaffolding provided some great photo opportunities.  We discovered a nearby nail factory as well, which was very handy.  The painting, though I wasn't directly involved, was one of the other major tasks, and, armed with old clothes and baseball caps, large swathes of
the team spent many days whitewashing the outside of the building.  The downstairs floor has been completed, and the sanding was done this afternoon, with the first coat of polyurethane applied this evening once Lucy had dusted the overhanging chunks of timber that might have spoilt the varnish.  

Tuesday 22nd
We borrowed Rade's truck today to move the piano, along with most of the rest of the heavy stuff.  In the afternoon I went to visit Marija Bošković, a past student of Stan's with Amy, Adam and Dragan.  We had fun trying to find her flat in the block where the lights went off in approximately the time it took to climb a flight and a half of stairs, but got there in the end.  We were fed about 18 watermelons (or so it seemed), and the burden of consumption fell heavily, though not ungratefully, on myself and Adam.  I was wearing one of my pairs of work trousers which had, over the course of the trip, developed a huge ungainly tear in the knee.  I tried, for the sake of propriety, to disguise this oversight by casually resting my hat on my knee as we chatted.  Maria's mother, however, wanted a better look at the hat, and as a result revealed my shameful dress-code.  The only comment she made (as translated for me by the bi-lingual members of the group) was that we were very 'natural'.  Maria was so taken with the hat that she said "How much did you pay for it?  I'll give you double".  I explained that I couldn't part with it for sentimental reasons, but it was indicative of the attitude of many people on the trip.  Due to the unique size of my head those who regularly borrowed the hat were almost exclusively limited to persons of the female persuasion.  

That evening, much to Amy's amusement, I attempted to mend my trousers.  It took quite a long time, and wasn't the neatest, but I was confident it would last a goodly while at least.  Afterwards I headed across to the property as the advance guard to spend the night in my hammock.  It would have been easier if I had known there was going to be a local working there overnight, or if he had known there would be a foreigner making free with the house, or if either of us could speak any of each other's language.  

Wednesday 23rd
The trousers didn't last.  In fact, it took a lot less time to rip than they had to mend.  Eventually Vicki got hold of them and applied some fearsome blanket-stitch, guaranteed, as they say, stronger than the wood itself.  When they finally gave way again, I must admit it was the cloth and not the stitch.  When those trousers rot to dust, archeologists will be left with an enigmatic trailing length of unbreakable blanket-stitch to puzzle over.  But I digress.  

Today my driving 'skills' were called upon to move the stove and gas tank along with sundry other items from the old house including beds and matresses.  Yes, the family were moving in today, despite the fact that the as yet undried varnish wouldn't allow them to enter via the front room.  In practice this meant I had to climb a ladder and squeeze through a window to get to my attic dwelling place, whereas most of the family rooms opened more or less directly onto the outside.  I got the advantage of a lovely view, though, even if my bathroom still had half a wall missing.  The girls from our team moved across too, and were installed in the school room.  With the whole family now officially Moved In, there were other jobs to be done.  I was assigned the heady title of Wardrobe Substitute Designer, and got cracking with a bunch of planks which had to be cut into laths and then nailed together into the semblance of the skeleton of a closet.  This was for hanging coat-hangers of clothes on, with a small shelf area (also of rough sawn timber) for catching the neck-ties which would otherwise drop onto the lovely clean floor.  

We sang under the monument of King Nikola I (I believe it was) again, and this time we ordered a take-away pizza.  We were aware, from the locals, that fast food isn't all it sounds in Montenegro, so we placed our order half an hour before we expected to finish.  This meant we only had a further 45 minutes or so to wait once we exhausted our repertoire of songs.  Very nice pizzas though.  

Thursday 24th
I brought across the washing machines and tumble dryer from the old house in the morning.  Marc went into town to make a phone-call, and didn't come back for hours.  It turns out he was held up by the Montenegrin equivalent of the Mafia in one of the pubs, who insisted that, since he was English, he should sell them drugs and guns.  He got away eventually, and we missed singing that evening, but the fish and chips we had at the Simunovices more than compensated.  We tried some homemade herbal tea as well, which was lovely.  Very early on I earned the nickname Tony the Cat - a version of Tony the Hat which increased in demand directly in proportion to the demand for my hat.  This evening they found a kitten to make the replacement official.  

Friday 25th
Up bright and early to drive the lads across from the church building, where they were still staying,
to the property, where we held our devotional (this time by Jenna, on John 14).  Colin and I continued to make our clothes racks - we churned out about 10 by the end, then we all went to play basketball.  This is quite a popular sport in Montenegro, and there are hoops set up all over the place in Nikšić.  Andy is a qualified basketball coach, and coupled with his height made it surprising that it was quite a close game all told.  We had been invited to Mileva's house for tea.  She was a student who attended the church and youth group, and had made us a delicious cake.  

Off into town for more singing in the evening.  You may have gathered that this was a popular pastime for us.  We got talking to a number of different people.  At one point I was juggling a conversation with a man who was a Christian but wanted to hear my opinion, via Mileva, my translator, on the name of God and another man who was loudly declaiming in the ear of Amy, my other translator, that rocks and plants have brains and that each man is his own god.  I hope what I managed to get across was helpful...

Lucy and I went with Amy to meet four of her friends from music school, and I spent a pleasant evening walking with them in the rain cogitating on how much more difficult it is to understand women when they all speak a different language.  I was compared to Hugh Grant, which, considering his posh accent, wasn't quite as complimentary as was intended.  

Saturday 26th
Today was the day of the baptisms.  These had been planned for some time, and we were up shortly after 5 o' clock to get some food before taking a coach to Herzig-Novi on the coast.  On the way we stopped to admire the view over the bay.  Needless to say we took the opportunity for a group photo or two.  There was a fantastic thunderstorm over the sea.  We arrived fairly early, and sat around chatting at the beach while waiting for others to turn up.  Some coped with waiting better than others, and Anđela took the opportunity to drum into us the names for various parts of the face - nos, brada, etc.  

Finally we were all assembled, including believers from nearby towns.  Filip, Rade and Goca gave their testimonies, ably translated for the more English among us by Dragan.  We sang a few songs as lustily as we could when only half-remembering the Montenegrin lyrics, and then Filip, Rade and Goca were baptised in the sea.  It was all very exciting, and, after the tradition of all good baptisms (don't quote me on that), we all got to go swimming afterwards.  Then, after carefully getting dry, the thunderstorm hit, and we all got soaked by the rain.  Nothing a 'Mixed Meat' meal in a cafe wouldn't solve though.  We also visited a cafe where one of Goca's friends worked, and enjoyed an hour's relaxation before we left.  

Sunday 27th
I picked up Amy's aunt who had just returned from the coast following a hip replacement and wanted to come to church.  The service was good, as usual, and in between morning and evening services we played the piano and a bit of table tennis.  Those not actually playing ping pong watched from the hammock, and a good time was had by all.  I spent some time teaching people poi, which was great fun.  Adam learnt quickly, and soon passed on his knowledge to Mili.  And then I go and spoil it all by forgetting to indicate when changing lanes in the evening and running into a BMW who was in my blind spot at a junction.  Considering I was a foreigner, had a broken brake light, an uncovered indicator, bare feet and no driving license (back in England), the police let me off very lightly.  I settled with the bloke whose car I had bumped without the (apparently) customary Montenegrin fist-fight, and headed back feeling slightly shaken.  

Later that evening I thought I was reacting a bit much to what was, after all, a fairly minor incident.  I felt weak and shaky, and it got worse as the night wore on.  When I started being sick I decided it was probably an unrelated bug.  Turns out Sinead had something similar, but, being a girl, she fought it off quicker than me.  

Monday 28th
Having said that, despite fainting dramatically in the bathroom this morning, I was (almost) right as rain by the end of the day.  The floor in the living room is now complete, and looks stunning.  I spent a (more or less) comfortable day being read to by Amy (Wodehouse in a Californian accent - fantastic) and her mum (Laura Ingalls Wilder, which fits American better).  The piano had been moved to the area of the living room known as the music section, where it was much appreciated by all.  I had the dubious privilege of watching the rest of the lads from the team putting a rickety ladder atop the rickety scaffolding in pursuit of higher painting territory. Apparently they nailed it on, and put a few ropes here and there, so that's alright, Best Beloved.  


Tuesday 29th
In my slightly enfeebled state I didn't get to say goodbye to Marc and Jenna, who left this morning.  Sinead went with the team singing in the evening, and felt the worse for it, but I stayed at home and avoided the rain.  I was grateful for my belt-and-braces approach to tying the hammock up, since two of us together caused one of the strings to break, but thankfully it didn't let us down.  More table tennis before turning in.  

Wednesday 30th
The final clear-out and cleaning of the old house took place, master-minded by Amy, myself, Jen and Lucy.  Pete, an Englishman who now lives in
Nikšić as a member of the church, arrived yesterday and was immediately roped into the moving process.  His car (typical of most of the town, it was a VW Golf) was filled twice with all the really final, this actually is everything, last bits and pieces from the old house.  The pace of work has slowed down somewhat, though.  We moved a bunch of boxes from the attic, but spent much of the afternoon playing ping pong and lounging around.  We went into town to sing for the last time, and Andy and I froze our fingers playing the guitar in the coldest wind we'd had since arriving.  We headed back quite briskly after talking with the people there, and warmed up in the house.  Andy found a book of puzzles to amuse the girls with.  Food retained its high standard, despite losing sundry items in the move.  Up late talking.  Our last night in Montenegro.  The girls joined Amy and I playing Take 5.  

Thursday 31st
No rush to get up for the plane; it didn't leave till mid-afternoon, and standard check-in times don't really apply at Podgorica, where the staff spend their coffee breaks placing bets on how many days will go by before the next tourist.  The cold and sunlight got me up for a photo of the sunrise from my balcony, and me and Colin (who slept on the Mezzanine floor for a change from the concrete) played ping pong till breakfast time.  We decided to spend our morning taking some shots of the team and family.  On the scaffolding.  So after a couple of shots by the house the lads moved it from the front of the house to a more picturesque place
.  Here we took a photo of the lads, then one of the girls, then some team photos.  Very handy for a trick photo or two.  

The
afternoon was whiled away with talking and a bit of stop-frame lego animation.  We headed to the airport eventually, after tearful farewells with everybody.  Pete took Colin, Jen, Amy and I in his car, and the rest of the team went in the truck with Stan.  Colin may have nodded off for some of the trip.  As airports go, Podgorica is a pretty nice one, with mountains all around, and standing a good 5 degrees hotter than the rest of Montenegro.  

I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of my stay, and I am determined to go back to visit before long.  I hear you can get a day's skiing for the price of a cinema ticket, and that's as good an excuse as any to see everybody again.  

Till then, I would like to thank everybody we were with for making our visit very special.  Stan, Vicki, Amy, Christian, Josiah, Milijana, Rada, Jelena, Maša, Anđela, Mileva, Milan, Filip, Rade, Dragan, Goran and anyone else we met who I'm afraid I can't remember the name of, let alone spell.  You all of you made it a really special time, and I'm sure you've made an impression on the whole team.  

Vidimo Se!

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Update: I returned for a visit the next summer, in June/July 2007.  Read about it here.  
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